50th Anniversary Celebration Thailand
Page 5
|
Tthe morning of Friday the 13th arrived. I don't remember being apprehensive about the significance of the date, but if I was I needn't have been. We were staying at the River City hotel and the morning was free time so it was down to explore a little of Mukdahan for most of us. The Indochina Market is on the waterfront of the Mekong and mostly underground. There are shops on the opposite side of the road facing the river with any amount of goodies on offer. After lunch we were to travel some thirty five miles south and then west. |
We didn't know it at the time but we were heading into the region of Nong Sung to the village of Ban Pao. The hilly terrain has meant isolation until fairly recently, as indeed has much of the Isaan region until some decent roads were built. Consequently lots of areas have retained unique cultural styles and practices. The Elders of Ban Pao have created a visitor attraction our friend's Aek and Rose decided was worth a visit and how right they were. I hope I can convey the fun and delight we had during our visit to Ban Pao. |
|
|
At the end of a journey that twisted and climbed through the hilly terrain we stopped in a road beside a Temple. As we alighted villagers in traditional costumes lined up to greet us warmly. It was noticeable that they were either quite young or elderly. As I was later informed, the missing generation were out in the big wide world earning and sending money home for their families. Again as a result of the road building programme that has given connectivity to the remote regions of rural Thailand. Pictures left and below courtesy of Aek Chaimongkol |
Drums banged and Cymbals clashed as the villagers dancing, led us from the road into a square. With encouragement from the locals, we tried to imitate their moves, audience participation was the the order of the day. We followed the villagers who seemed to be enjoying themselves as much as we were. The square was decorated in bunting with rafia matting on the ground, around the edge of the matting were chairs for us to sit on. Click HERE to view a video in another window which will take some time to download. |
|
|
It took a while for us to settle as the group took stock of the surroundings. 'Cute' little girls in their traditional costumes, were commandeered for picture taking as indeed were the older villagers. After a little milling around we organised ourselves into little goups and sat down on the chairs provided. The villagers provided us with refreshments. We talked amongst ourselves as we drank our chilled bottled water and relaxed as we waited for events to unfold. An elder who spoke good English with the aid of a radio microphone started the proceedings. |
| The group of people who'd lined up to greet us as we entered the square, now walked on to the matting and music started to play. They started to dance a fairly simple routine, much like the American 'Line Dancing' except for the heel slapping part. The Master of Ceremonies aided by Rose and Aek encouraged us onto the floor to join in with the dance. We did so enthusiastically and with perseverance got the hang of the routine. However, as the pictures in the slideshow prove there were some hilarious gyrations until we did. |
|
| |
Although the picture left isn't a good representation, we'd started
to get the hang of the routine. I've subsequently been informed we were dancing the Paslop dance pronounced 'passalope'. It's a component of the
dance and theatre culture of the Laos people. In this case the dance is a folk dance and associated with 'Morlam' rather than the classical dances. This dance is usually performed at weddings, as I have witnessed myself and other celebrations which is the category our visit comes under.
|
| We took to our seats once again to recover from our exertions and take a drink. It was late afternoon by this time as the shadows in the pictures show. This was good planning on Aek and Rose's part as the heat had gone out of the day. It was time for the ladies of the oldest generation to show of their skills. A number of hardwood and bamboo contraptions were bought on to the matting. After demonstrating the art of cotton spinning, volunteers were invited to have a try. Indeed there was no shortage of volunteers and the music played as the Dancers danced. |
|
|
|
Before the 'Spinners' had finished the MC swiftly moved things on to the finale.The 'Pah Kwan' centerpiece shown here, is integral to Baci (pronounced Bai-cee) ceremony. I've produced a small video HERE (allow time for it to download) which starts with the Pah Kwan being bought out on to the center of the matting. The ceremony of Baci can be held on any day throughout the year as it is meant to commemorate specific events in an individual's life. In this case to honour visitors and guests of importance (us). |
| We were invited on to the matting again, this time seated in our chairs encircling the Pah Kwan which had been placed on a table. The ceremony is performed by a senior person of the community who has been a Buddhist monk at some stage, and special arrangements are made for the occasion. The practice involves preparing the 'Pah Kwan' or the flower trays and placing at a central location for people to gather around it in reverential prayers. Neville was invited to start the proceedings by lighting the candle at the top of this magnificent Pah Kwan. |
|
| |
One of the elders (the Mor Phon) then started to chant mantras in Laos. Buddhist deities, animist deities and spirits are invoked amidst the chants for the return of Kwans (souls) from wherever they are, back to the body to ensure equilibrium. This ceremony is said to be a fusion of the traditions of Hindu and Buddhist religious practices. This practice is linked to the ancient belief that Baci is invoked religiously to synchronise the effects of 32 organs of the human body considered as kwan (KWA-ang) or spirits or the “components of the soul.” |
| The prayers and mantras completed the rest of the villagers joined us for the last act of the Baci. They bought with them cotton threads and motioning three times down the wrist they drew bad spirits out. In reverse they motioned upwards with the thread to encourage good spirits into our bodies. The thread was then tied around the wrist and stays on for three days before being untied (not cut). Here Alan Myers accepts the good wishes from this resident of Ban Pao. The final act of the Baci is the giving of gifts for the onward journey, usually an egg and sticky rice. |
|
| |
With the light fading quickly, as he had done on previous occasions, Neil Campbell led the group from a venue but this time without his trusty Bagpipes. The villagers stood to create a corridor of smiles and goodwill for our departure. I only have room for two images in this rollover, so view the slideshow for more pictures of happy travellers, with broad smiles on their faces as they exited the square. |
| I needed something to show the delight we all felt as we left Ban Pao and Kitty MacMillan made it easy for me with the picture right. Our group was by far the biggest party of foreigners to visit Ban Pao to date. If you look at the slideshow below this image, you will see the inhabitants of Ban Pao both young and old seemed to enjoy our company as much as we'd enjoyed theirs. I have edited a larger video of our departure from the square to the waiting coach. It can be viewed by clicking on the image right but because of it's size, will take some time to download for the first time. |
|
Slideshow
A slideshow of pictures taken during this phase of the trip is shown below in chronological order. Place your cursor into the picture window to freeze the motion, remove it allow the slideshow to restart. Depending on your connection, it may take a while for the pictures to download and the slideshow to start |
|
|
